Setting up an RV campsite in state parks and commercial campgrounds is a rewarding experience, but following proper etiquette and procedures is crucial. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to set up an RV campsite, along with the essential Dos and Don'ts.

Phase 1: Planning & Arrival
Confirm Reservations: Double-check the dates, site number, and check-in/check-out times.

Know the length of your RV: Ensure the campsite can accommodate the full length of your RV (including hitches).

Check Utilities: Confirm the site offers the ​necessary hookups (30/50 amp electric, water, and sewer)

Stop at the Ranger Station/Office: If it is stated to stop at the office first. Some parks allow you to go to your site directly if your reservation is confirmed online. Check in, get your site number, vehicle pass, and the campground map/rules.

Drive Slowly: Adhere strictly to the campground speed limits (usually 5–15 MPH). Pedestrians, children, and wildlife are common.

Locate Your Site: ​Take a moment to locate your specific site number on the printed map, confirm the most direct route, and note any one-way sections or tight turns that may require extra planning. Drive past your site once, if possible, to get a lay of the land without the pressure of having to back in immediately. This simple act of preparation ensures a smoother, quicker arrival, prevents unnecessary congestion for other campers, and saves you the headache of attempting difficult maneuvers while lost.

Always use a spotter: Maneuvering a large RV or travel trailer backward into a tight campsite slot is one of the most stressful parts of setting up camp, making the use of a spotter essential when maneuvering the rig onto the pad. The spotter acts as the driver's vital external eyes, positioned where they can clearly see the rear corners of the vehicle and the immediate hazards, such as utility pedestals, trees, and fire rings, which are invisible in the side mirrors. Ask the spotter to always stand in the driver's side mirror's sight, so that the driver can see them.

Through clear, unambiguous hand signals or radio communication—commands like "driver's side, easy" or "two feet, stop"—the spotter ensures the trailer tracks correctly, preventing costly dings and making the tricky task of aligning the wheels perfectly over the concrete or gravel pad a swift, cooperative effort rather than a frustrating, prolonged guessing game.

Phase 2: Site Positioning & Leveling:
1. Position the RV (The Back-In)

Assess the Site: Look for low-hanging branches, large rocks, picnic tables, or utility posts that could obstruct your slide-outs or awning.

Confirm Hookups: Ensure your RV's utility connections will align with the site's hookup pedestal (usually located on the driver's side). You typically want to be close enough for your hose/cord but not too close that you can't open the basement doors. 

Goal: Position the RV slightly off-center to allow maximum use of your patio area (usually the passenger side).

2. Level the RV

Side-to-Side Leveling (The Priority): Use leveling blocks (plastic or wood) placed under the wheels on the low side.
Drive the RV onto the blocks until the bubble level ​indicates that you are level side to side. Remember, your RV jacks are stabilizers, not levelers, unless you have a hydraulic system installed on your RV.

Front-to-Back Leveling: Once the wheels are parked, engage your leveling jacks (if automatic) or use your front tongue jack (if manual) to adjust the height until the RV is level from front to back. 

Lower Stabilizer Jacks: These are different from leveling jacks; they merely reduce movement inside the RV. Lower them until they make contact with the ground and are snug, but do not lift the RV off the ground with them.

Chock the Wheels: Placing chocks (blocks) tightly against the tires is essential, even if you are level. This prevents rolling.

Tires: Always keep your tires in contact with the ground! Never lift them from the surface.

Phase 3: Utility Hookups
1. Electric Hookup

Pedestal: Turn off the breaker at the pedestal first.
Plug in your surge protector/EMS (Energy Management System) before plugging in your main cord. Wait for the EMS to confirm the power is safe. Plug the main power cord into the surge protector (or directly into the pedestal if you don't have one).
Flip the breaker on and check inside your RV to ensure power is coming in.

2. Water Hookup

Attach a water pressure regulator to the spigot. Park water pressure can often be too high for an RV's delicate plumbing. Attach a clean, dedicated drinking water hose (usually white or blue) to the regulator. Flush the spigot first before connecting the hose to clear any debris. Connect the hose to your RV's city water inlet. First, open your kitchen and bathroom spigots slightly to let the air out of the waterlines when you turn the water on.
Turn on the outside spigot SLOWLY.

3. Sewer Hookup (The Messy Part): 

Wear disposable gloves. Ensure your sewer hose connects securely to your RV's sewer outlet.

Connect to Park's Sewer: Place the opposite end of the hose securely into the ground sewer inlet (using a weighted elbow or rubber doughnut seal if required by the park). ​While it might seem counterintuitive to deliberately create a "trap" in your RV's sewer hose, leaving a P-trap in the system is a surprisingly effective and common practice for preventing unwelcome odors from wafting into your living space. This simple technique involves ensuring that a small amount of black water remains pooled at the lowest point of the hose, typically at the connection to the sewer drain at your campsite. Just like the P-trap under your household sink, this stagnant water creates a seal, effectively blocking sewer gases – which are a natural byproduct of decomposition – from traveling back up the hose and into your RV.








Use a Sewer Support: Use a slinky-style hose support to ensure the hose slopes downhill continuously from the RV to the inlet. This is often mandatory in parks.

Keep Valves Closed: Leave the black tank and gray tank valves closed until the tanks need dumping (usually every few days or when full). Never leave the black tank valve open as this allows liquid to drain out and leaves solids behind, leading to a "poop pyramid."